SMALL SAUCE DEFINITION RECIPES

Steps:

• Place cream in a wide non-stick frying pan and reduce over moderate heat for about 5-8 minutes, stirring until you have 400ml cream. Strain into a bowl and set aside.

  In a stainless steel medium pan place the shallots, wine, vermouth, stock and thyme, and reduce over moderate heat until you have about 100ml of syrupy reduction. Strain, pressing really hard on the solids.

  Rinse and dry the stainless steel saucepan. Return the strained reduction, bring to simmering point and whisk in the reduced cream. Add the lemon juice and season to taste. The sauce can now wait for several hours until you wish to finish it.

  To serve

  Return to simmering point and drop in your choice of prepared garnish. Stir to reheat thoroughly and, if you wish, swirl in a small piece of butter to add extra richness. Spoon over or around your fish or shellfish. Makes about 1 1/2 cups finished sauce - plenty for 6 people.

  Alternative garnishes

  One cup of sorrel leaves, washed, dried, central stem torn away, and leaves torn into large pieces tiny pinch saffron stamens, 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into 5mm dice, 1 tbsp freshly-chopped parsley half a carrothalf a Lebanese cucumber half a leek- Cut all into julienne shreds, place in a wide pan of water and bring slowly to simmering point for 5 minutes, then strain.

Steps:

• Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat; slowly bring to a boil, skimming froth from surface. Carefully pour melted butter into a small bowl, holding back the milky sediment in the bottom of the pan. The clarified butter should be the color of light olive oil; let cool to room temperature.
• Bring a small pot of water to a boil over high heat; prepare an ice-water bath and set aside. Using a paring knife, remove zest from oranges in large strips, reserving oranges. Add zest to boiling water; cook until softened, about 1 minute. Drain and transfer to ice-water bath to cool. Drain and very finely chop; set aside.
• Squeeze juice from oranges into a small saucepan. Place saucepan over low heat and cook until juice is reduced by one third. Add zest to saucepan and remove from heat; set aside to cool.
• In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, mix vinegar with 1/4 cup cold water and crushed peppercorns. Place over medium-high heat until liquid is reduced by one third; remove from heat and let cool completely. Add egg yolks to cooled reduction and whisk to combine.
• Place saucepan on a heat diffuser over very low heat; whisk, making sure the whisk comes in contact with the bottom of the pan. Gradually increase heat, whisking so the sauce emulsifies progressively and becomes smooth and creamy, 8 to 10 minutes; do not let the temperature of the sauce rise above 150 degrees.
• Remove saucepan from heat and whisk in clarified butter in a slow, steady stream; season with salt. Stir in lemon and orange juice mixture. Line a chinois or fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth; strain mixture and discard solids. Use sauce immediately.