METAL COOKING TRAY RECIPES

1. Put the flour, yeast and 1 teaspoon of sea salt into a large bowl and make a well in the middle. Gradually pour in 550ml of tepid water, continuously stirring and bringing in the flour from the outside as you go to form a rough dough.
2. Transfer to a flour-dusted surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until smooth and springy. Place in a bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and prove in a warm place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
3. Meanwhile, make the butter – this is a big batch, to make good use of your time, and you can freeze the extra for rainy days. Use a garlic crusher to crush the garlic into the softened butter, finely grate over the zest of ½ a lemon, finely chop and add the parsley (stalks and all), the cayenne and a pinch of salt, then mix it all together.
4. Remove one quarter to use in this recipe, then place the rest on a sheet of greaseproof paper, roll it up into a log and twist the ends like a Christmas cracker, then pop into the freezer.
5. After 30 minutes, get the butter out and slice it up to pre-portion, then re-roll and return to the freezer, where it will keep very happily for up to 6 months.
6. Spread one third of your soft butter portion all around the base and sides of a large metal tray (25cm x 35cm), then scatter in the breadcrumbs and shake around into an even layer so they stick to the butter.
7. Divide up the dough into 35 pieces, then, one-by-one, roll each one into a ball and place in the tray in rows – 5 balls across and 7 balls long is perfect.
8. Bomb over another third of the soft butter, in and around the balls. Leave to prove for another 1 hour 30 minutes, or until doubled in size again.
9. Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/gas 5.
10. Sprinkle the balls with a little salt, then bake on the bottom shelf of the oven for 30 minutes, or until lovely and golden.
11. Bomb over that final third of your soft butter and spread it around to give the bread a beautiful shine.
12. Whack the tray in the middle of the table or at the centre of your picnic for sharing, and let everyone tear off their own pieces.

1. Three obvious things are important on your journey to perfection – your choice of potato, your choice of oil and your choice of salt. For me, the Maris Piper potato wins every time, and you want to use nice large ones.
2. On oil, sunflower and sunseed are very efficient, and many people swear by using groundnut oil. But, if you’re after flavour, cooking chips in beef tallow (rendered beef fat you can get from your butcher) gives you better flavour and colour – the choice is yours.
3. Finally, on salt, being an Essex boy, in my house it has to be Maldon sea salt.
4. So down to business: chop 800g of Maris Piper potatoes into finger-sized chips, leaving the skin on – don’t be too exact.
5. Chip shops have massive industrial fryers, which you can’t recreate at home, so you need to use a large sturdy pan on a medium to high heat (unless you own a deep-fat fryer, of course). Your oil should be 8cm deep, but never fill your pan more than half full. If you don’t have a thermometer, use a raw chip, and as it starts to float and fry the temperature should be about 140°C, which is perfect for blanching.
6. Use a large metal sieve to gently lower the chips into the pan for around 8 minutes, or until soft but not coloured, then remove to a tray to cool.
7. Turn the heat up under the oil and return one blanched chip to the oil as a guide again. Once it’s floating and golden the temperature should be about 180°C, which is perfect for frying and will give you chips with those all-important crispy outsides and fluffy middles.
8. At this stage you may want to cook your chips in 2-portion batches, so you don’t decrease the temperature of the oil too much or overcrowd the pan. Fry the chips until beautifully golden, then remove to a bowl lined with kitchen paper, shake around a bit, season with sea salt and serve right away.

1. Put the flour, yeast and 1 teaspoon of sea salt into a large bowl and make a well in the middle. Gradually pour in 550ml of tepid water, continuously stirring and bringing in the flour from the outside as you go to form a rough dough.
2. Transfer to a flour-dusted surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until smooth and springy. Place in a bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and prove in a warm place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
3. Meanwhile, make the butter – this is a big batch, to make good use of your time, and you can freeze the extra for rainy days. Use a garlic crusher to crush the garlic into the softened butter, finely grate over the zest of ½ a lemon, finely chop and add the parsley (stalks and all), the cayenne and a pinch of salt, then mix it all together.
4. Remove one quarter to use in this recipe, then place the rest on a sheet of greaseproof paper, roll it up into a log and twist the ends like a Christmas cracker, then pop into the freezer.
5. After 30 minutes, get the butter out and slice it up to pre-portion, then re-roll and return to the freezer, where it will keep very happily for up to 6 months.
6. Spread one third of your soft butter portion all around the base and sides of a large metal tray (25cm x 35cm), then scatter in the breadcrumbs and shake around into an even layer so they stick to the butter.
7. Divide up the dough into 35 pieces, then, one-by-one, roll each one into a ball and place in the tray in rows – 5 balls across and 7 balls long is perfect.
8. Bomb over another third of the soft butter, in and around the balls. Leave to prove for another 1 hour 30 minutes, or until doubled in size again.
9. Preheat the oven to 190ºC/375ºF/gas 5.
10. Sprinkle the balls with a little salt, then bake on the bottom shelf of the oven for 30 minutes, or until lovely and golden.
11. Bomb over that final third of your soft butter and spread it around to give the bread a beautiful shine.
12. Whack the tray in the middle of the table or at the centre of your picnic for sharing, and let everyone tear off their own pieces.

1. Measure the flour, baking powder and sugar into a large bowl and add the orange zest. Mix together, then make a well in the centre and add the egg and half the milk. Beat well, with a whisk, until you have a smooth thick batter, then beat in enough of the remaining milk to make a batter the consistency of thick pouring cream.

2. Heat a little oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Drop the batter in dessertspoonfuls into the hot pan, spacing each dollop of the mixture well apart to allow it to spread. Cook for about 2 minutes or until bubbles start to appear on the surface, then turn over with a non-stick blunt-ended palette knife or spatula, and cook on the other side for a further 30–60 seconds or until lightly golden brown on both sides.

3. Use the palette knife to lift the scones on to a wire rack, then cover them with a clean tea towel to keep them soft and warm. Continue more scones in the same way with the remaining, adding a splash more oil if the pan gets too dry.

4. Serve at once spread with butter, syrup or honey, or with Greek yoghurt and blueberries or raspberries or other seasonal fruits.

Cook time: 2-3 minutes per batch.

Prepare Ahead:

Can be made up to 6 hours ahead and reheated to serve. Arrange in a single layer on a baking tray, cover tightly with foil and warm through in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes.

Freeze: The drop scones freeze well (see tip); defrost and warm through as above.

Mary’s Classic Tip:
* Before freezing the drop pancakes, wrap them in greaseproof paper and pack in a freezer-proof container to prevent them getting damaged edges.

1. Measure the flour, baking powder and sugar into a large bowl and add the orange zest. Mix together, then make a well in the centre and add the egg and half the milk. Beat well, with a whisk, until you have a smooth thick batter, then beat in enough of the remaining milk to make a batter the consistency of thick pouring cream.

2. Heat a little oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Drop the batter in dessertspoonfuls into the hot pan, spacing each dollop of the mixture well apart to allow it to spread. Cook for about 2 minutes or until bubbles start to appear on the surface, then turn over with a non-stick blunt-ended palette knife or spatula, and cook on the other side for a further 30–60 seconds or until lightly golden brown on both sides.

3. Use the palette knife to lift the scones on to a wire rack, then cover them with a clean tea towel to keep them soft and warm. Continue more scones in the same way with the remaining, adding a splash more oil if the pan gets too dry.

4. Serve at once spread with butter, syrup or honey, or with Greek yoghurt and blueberries or raspberries or other seasonal fruits.

Cook time: 2-3 minutes per batch.

Prepare Ahead:

Can be made up to 6 hours ahead and reheated to serve. Arrange in a single layer on a baking tray, cover tightly with foil and warm through in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes.

Freeze: The drop scones freeze well (see tip); defrost and warm through as above.

Mary’s Classic Tip:
* Before freezing the drop pancakes, wrap them in greaseproof paper and pack in a freezer-proof container to prevent them getting damaged edges.